These Boots....: St. Bees Head, Cumbria

The Cumbrian village of St Bees lies approximately fifty miles south of the Scottish border and has been a popular holiday destination for over 150 years. The Norman Priory dates from 1120 and is dedicated to Saint Bega, the legendary daughter of an Irish king who is reputed to have washed ashore in a small boat after fleeing to avoid an arranged marriage.

The long sandy beach of Seacote stretches away to the south while to the north are the red sandstone cliffs of St Bees Head, the most westerly point of Cumbria. This area is the only designated Heritage Coast between Scotland and Wales and is an important seabird reserve.

This anchor is from the SS Izaro, a Spanish steamship which was shipwrecked in fog on the rocks below the cliffs in 1907.

Fortunately the crew were able to scramble to safety and the cargo of iron ore was successfully unloaded before the ship finally broke in two.

The South Head is known locally as "Tomlin" and dominates the beach.

During the Great Depression of the 1930’s local mines closed and unemployment rose. Rather than sit idle, many of the men who had lost their jobs undertook a project to build an outdoor swimming pool in the rocks at the foot of Tomlin.
The project was led by Isaac Spedding, an unemployed marine engineer. Land was leased from Lowther Estates, and work started in 1933 to remove 600 tons of rock with the aid of explosives. A rectangular pool was constructed which could hold 80,000 gallons of sea water and even had a diving board.
The pool was opened on a hot sunny day in July 1934 and was maintained by the St Bees Unemployed Mens' Club. Pensioners and the unemployed had free access, children paid a penny and adults two pence. Sadly, by the end of WW2 the pool had silted with shingle and rocks and was never used again. The remains of the structure can still be seen.

The footpath hugs the edge of the cliff, affording walkers spectacular views in all directions.

On a clear day the panorama includes the Lakeland Fells...

...the Isle of Man (a little misty out to sea on this particular day) ...

...and the Scottish hills of Dumfries and Galloway.

The sandstone cliffs are 200 million years old and home to a diverse array of flora and fauna. The RSPB reserve is home in the nesting season to Kittiwakes, Fulmars, Razorbills, Cormorants and Puffins to name but a few. It is also the only nesting place in England for the Black Guillemot.


Kittiwake

At the time of our visit the vast majority of birds had raised their young and departed, with just a few remaining in the area.

Wheatears are spring and summer visitors to the UK, spending their winters in Africa.

Wheatear

The cliffs drop dramatically to the sea below; a flimsy fence being the only safety barrier. A pinnacle of rock named Cloven Barth leans precariously away from the main cliff face. This is known locally as Lawson's Leap after a character who thought, fatally, he could make the jump across. The gap is not wide, though the crevice is very deep.

The path drops steeply down between the North and South Head to reveal the lovely shingle beach at Fleswick Bay. Accessible only on foot or by boat, Fleswick Bay is enclosed by towering cliffs and is a popular area for rock climbers and boulderers to hone their skills.

There has been a lighthouse on the North Head since 1718. This coal fired lighthouse was the last of its kind to be used in Britain. It was destroyed by fire in 1822. A new lighthouse, this time running on oil, was built in 1825 and still operates today.

Birkhams Quarry, still in use today, is thought to have produced the stone which was used in the plinth of the Statue of Liberty. Situated as it is in an important SSSI, the owners work with local geologists and a nature consortium to ensure sensitivity is maintained.

If the abundance of butterflies, birds and wildflowers is anything to go by, they appear to be upholding their responsibilities.

Wall

Small Whites

Small White

Painted Lady

Gatekeeper

Peacock

Linnet

Stonechat

Kestrel

Our circular walk now took us back in the direction of St Bees, although there was a temptation to keep walking all the way to Whitehaven which could be seen in the distance.